Cape Breton Island,
Nova Scotia

Where the sea and fiddle rule

• Background
• Where Is Cape Breton?
• Cape Breton v. Breton
• The Music
• Festivals
• Traveling to Cape Breton
• Cape Breton Resources

The Music:

Background

Cape Breton Island is a large island that forms the eastern part of the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. The people of the island today are descendants of mainly Scottish immigrants that came over in the late 1700s and early 1800s from the Highlands and Western Islands, the Gaelic and Catholic parts of Scotland. Here they joined early French settlers, now known as Acadians, and the original inhabitants of the area, the MiqMacs.

Although the settlers endured harsh times after immigration, the isolation of the island kept their cultures remarkably intact in the intervening centuries. Until this century (Scottish) Gaelic continued to be spoken in large areas of the island. In particular, the traditional dance music from Scotland was preserved here more than it was in Scotland. This link to their Scottish (or French) past is a central reality to most Cape Bretoners.

(Cabot Trail)

Remarkably, the Cape Breton musicians have not only kept the traditional music alive and remarkably intact, but have also kept it exciting and relevant to an age jaded with television and techno music. They have not only respectfully tended to the old tunes and songs, but continued the oral tradition by writing new tunes and incorporating new instruments into the music. Due to a concerted local effort Cape Breton music is thriving in Cape Breton. Due to the incredible talent on the island, this music is gaining the deserved appreciation, and even awe, of traditional music fans around the world. Good introductions to this music are: Cape Breton Music On-Line, the Cape Breton Musical Showcase, and (immodestly) my own Cape Breton Music pages .

   Those new to this music often confuse Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, with the adjective "Breton" used to describe the very different traditional celtic music from Brittany (Bretagne) in northwest France. Music from this region of France has enjoyed a major revival in recent years and Breton tunes are increasingly working their way into the repertoire of Irish and some Scottish traditional musicians, but only rarely into the Scottish music of Cape Breton. There is more information about Breton music elsewhere on this website.

Virtually everyone in Cape Breton has great knowledge and strong opinions about the local music, seems to play 2 or 3 instrument, can step dance for hours, and seems to have no need for sleep is the music is hot. Nothing like having a detailed discussion with the mechanic filling your car with gas on the relative merits of Ashley MacIsaac's different albums compared to those of 5 other local fiddlers to make you realize that Cape Bretoners are remarkably knowledgeable and justifiably proud about their musical heritage.

On the West Coast of the U.S., Cape Breton music is just being discovered, often traveling on the coat tails of the more established Irish music festivals and performers. Ashley MacIsaac and Mary Jane Lamond have been appearing at the bigger Irish festivals, appealing here to a Celtic Rock audience. The incomparable Natalie MacMaster is the best ambassador for Cape Breton music that can be imagined. Natalie's extraordinary live performances convert entire audiences to fans of Cape Breton music with an enthusiasm that would make Billy Graham envious. The amazing Rankin Family has been impressing a growing audience outside Canada. Those who listen to CDs have heard the wonderful fiddle playing of Jerry Holland. (Many other Cape Breton musicians such as fiddle great Buddy MacMaster, have played at numerous festivals, but this appear to be mainly East Coast festivals. Singer Rita MacNeil has huge followings in Canada and England, although she is less well known in the States.

The musicians mentioned above are just the tip of the iceberg. My experience was that there is just wave after wave of talented musicians, including an exciting number of very young musicians. I hope the increasing recognition and financial success of the bigger acts will help support this wonderful tradition. For more information about individual musicians and their albums, go to my Cape Breton Music pages.

Cape Breton has some of the most beautiful scenery on the East Coast. For many, the highlight are the rocky coastline and vistas of Cape Breton Highlands National Park as seen driving the Cabot Trail. However, the rolling hills around Glendale ablaze in autumn colors, or the lovely Margaree Valley. For Alexander Graham Bell, Bras D'Or Lake near Baddeck was the prettiest spot on earth. There are lots of places to chose from. For an absolutely gorgeous introduction to this scenery (and music) I very highly recommend the video, Cape Breton Island, the Video.

Traveling to Cape Breton

Traveling to Cape Breton is relatively easy. Most tourists drive there from the East Coast, but for us west coasters, the easiest way is to fly to Sydney, NS, or Halifax. Cape Breton Island is about a 4 hour drive from Halifax. The road is very nice, and in the fall very pretty.

On my trip I stayed primarily in B&Bs which was great way to go. In the summer, camping is definitely an option. I think having a car is a necessity since public transit probably won't be adequate to see the places you want to go. In summer, many people bicycle, but be warned the island is quite windy and the Cabot Trail has very steep hills that would be "challenging" on a bike. There is a large amount of information about B&Bs and other travel information on the WWW.

(Maple leaves in autumn)

Cape Breton has the largest population of bald eagles in the East Coast. They are relatively easy to see. The island also has Atlantic puffins (in summer), gannets, razorbills and dozens of warbler species.
(Photo: Jim Scarff)